In fact, the ability to stand back a few more inches is usually a plus for macro work.
This is not a problem, you simply stand back 1.5x further to see the same scene as the FF sensor sees. You may have to stand back a bit further with the smaller cropped sensor to see the entire subject view in the smaller frame again, which then would be less magnification (perhaps 1:1.5 instead of 1:1, to see the same view). It just cannot all fit into the smaller frame. But the penny is the same 1:1 real life 19 mm size in both frames, because the magnification is of course the same from the same lens. So the full penny is easily shown in the 36x24 mm frame (larger field of view), but a bit of the 19 mm is cut off in the 24x16 mm frame. penny coin is 3/4 inch diameter, or about 19 mm diameter. But any subject inside the frame will be exactly the same size in both (if both are the same lens at the same 1:1 setting, then both are same 1:1 life size).Ī U.S. However, that is NOT different magnification, it is simply different frame size, different field of view size. So if one sensor is 36 x 24 mm (FF), and the other is 24 x 16 mm (cropped smaller), then if the lens is set to 1:1, one scene view is 24 mm tall and the other scene view is 16 mm tall. That is what cropped means, a smaller sensor with a more narrow view. Except of course the larger FF sensor has a larger frame around the subject, a wider field of view than the smaller cropped sensor. If the lens is set to 1:1 magnification, the image on both sensors will be the same 1:1 magnification. Same magnification, no difference at all in the lens image.
If assuming use of the same macro lens (same focal length) on both the FF sensor and the smaller cropped sensor, then the same lens will project exactly the same image onto both sensors. All these extras have to be taken into account for the budget. Also focussing becomes difficult, easiest is often to use a rail. So a good tripod is needed (and one that can go down to ground level). While not strictly related to the question, keep in mind that there's more to take into account when setting up for macro: when you are working at or close to 1:1 magnification (or more), handheld is getting tricky. So the apparent magnification on screen (or uncropped print) will be larger for the crop sensor. For a 1.5× crop sensor, a subject of 16 mm will take up the full height of the sensor, for a FF sensor, you'd need a 24mm subject. If you use a "real" macro lens which gives you a magnification of 1:1 (or more), at 1:1 the image is the same size as the subject. You really like to have the subject fill the field of view. The real difference comes when you look at the size of the image on the sensor: But as the pixels are smaller, you'll have a bit more noise. For a given number of pixels, a crop sensor will indeed have a larger pixel density, thus a potentially larger resolution.
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